Day Six: Saturday, Aug. 18, 2001
Is that sunlight coming through the window? YES! I step out on the back porch of our room and am greeted with a beatiful morning. (Pic 1 / Pic 2) Barely a cloud in the sky above and the air is crisp. This is going to be a wonderful day for riding. I slept okay and feel fairly fresh. I'm excited about getting out on the road and having dry pavement.
After a quick shower I head over to the restaraunt with Jim to meet some other folks for breakfast. Then everyone heads out to the parking lot for a group shot of the bikes. Unfortunately, there are so many, getting them all in the picture is tough.
Today I think we are going to run with a little bit slower group and just enjoy the riding. Somehow, Steve Duncan winds up leading our group as we leave the parking lot and head out West on the BRP. It is another cool morning and the clouds are settled in low in the valleys below us. I'm ready to roll, but no sooner than we pull out onto the Parkway, we get stuck behind a seemingly endless line of cars. Arrgghh!
We troll along at a rather boring pace, hoping that the cars might pull over in one of the many scenic overlook parking lots and let us pass. No dice. But it is not long before Mark "Big Dawg" Hanke and his cohorts for the day come up behind us. They are not quite as patient and start hopping around us and then the cars before disappearing around the next bend. A scant few miles later most of the cars have turned off or we have managed to pass them and it is clear sailing.
Our first stop is the highest point on the Parkway, the Richland Balsam Overlook at 6053 ft. It is absolutely beautiful. I run around wasting film at a prodigous rate until everyone is ready to mount up and head out again.
The route plan for today is to run the entire section of the Parkway the its end in Cherokee. Then we'll run Hwy 19 from Cherokee back West to the main Smokie Mountain Expressway. Having done that section of 19 last year and getting stuck in tons of traffic, I suggest to the other guys that perhaps we might exit the Parkway onto the Expressway before getting to Cherokee, skipping the old Hwy 19 and still coming out at the same place. They agree so off we go.
Steve is in the lead. And once again, I start slipping into zone mode. It is hard not to when riding the Parkway, it just lulls you into that frame of mind because it is so much fun. We soon come upon the exit for US 74 and stop to confer. Not realizing that this is actually the exit we want, we continue on along the Parkway. It is not long before I realize we should have exited and we stop again to confer. However we decide to just keep going. We are in no hurry.
The rest of the ride on the Parkway is delicous. At the pace we are running it does not take long to reach it's end in Cherokee. The town is quite busy. It is such a beautiful day that the tourists are out in force. We stop in a parking lot for a quick stretch and nature break for some. Then we head for 19.
Unlike last year, the traffic is not too bad. We can't run the pace we'd like, but at least the pace is not stop and go. The road is smooth and twists along a river valley. Trees shade it for most of the way. Much of the steep hillside is covered by the Kudzu vine. The thick sweet smell of the blossoms is hanging in the air. Eventually, we arrive at US 74 again, where I had intended to come out had we taken the right exit off the Parkway. It is just a short blast up the Expressway to Hwy 28 South, our next point of interest.
Highway 28 runing South of Hwy 19 to Franklin is an amazing stretch of asphalt. It starts off like many other roads. The first mile or so is nothing real special. But then we round a curve and the rest of the road takes on a life of its' own. Forget Deal's Gap. This is much more fun. We are blasting through one perfect smooth banked curve after another. This road just follows the side of the mountain about two thirds of the way up from the valley below. The best way I can think to describe the sensation of riding this road is to compare it to the motion of a downhill skier, slashing back and forth in a rythmic dance, leaning and cutting one way and then flipping back the other, all the while maintaining the all precious momentum. It is almost hypnotic.
The road continues for about twenty miles or so before it straightens out a after making its way down into a valley. Steve pulls over so we can take a break. The helmets come off fast and everyone is breathing heavy. The grins are big and wide! Several of us are still giggling like little school girls. What a ride! At this point I think everyone is making a mental note, "DO THIS ROAD NEXT YEAR!" After we finish telling stories and stretching, we mount back up and make our way to Franklin, trying to pay attention to the road ahead while we are still reriding the past few miles in our head hehe. Are we eating soon?
The remaining miles to Franklin are nice and relaxing, easy and smooth. When we get into town the road starts to wander around. I'm busy trying to keep one eye on the guys in front of me and another looking for a good place to eat. After a few turns it seems that we are heading back the way we just came. I spot a Subway but the group keeps going. I see some other Triumph riders go by as we make a U-turn and circle back around the block. I am starting to wonder if Steve is seriously lost? So here we are again, sitting at the same light again, what in the world are we doing? Then Steve pulls into a parking lot and head for the back alley behind some buildings. Then I finally see it, a small hole in the wall cafe. What the heck, this is supposed to be an adventure right?
We park the bikes and head in, so far so good. At first glance the place is a bit dark. But once my eyes begin to adjust I realize it is actually quite cozy. Apparently, this place is a small coffee, sandwich, dessert shop that ocasionally has live music. Cool. The lady running the place is very friendly. Most of us get little Pitas stuffed with meat and cheese with a bag of chips. It turns out to be a pretty good meal for about five bucks. If only I could remember the name of this place! As we are checking out I get up on the small stage area and click a quick picture of the place hoping to capture a bit of the ambience. It's too bad that Huntsville does not have a place like this for the older non-college crowd to hang out. Oh well.
After paying, we mosey out to the parking lot, moving rather lethargicly at best. Our brave leader takes us back out onto the roads, pretending to know where he is going. Highway 28 intersect US 64 and they run together if you continue East. Unfortunately, Steve takes us back West for a few miles before we realize we need to turn around. Once we get turned around and are sitting on the feeder road waiting for a break in the traffic, we ALL notice scantily clad young women waiving signs at us trying to entice us into having the bikes washed. Very distracting.
Back on the proper road, we get back to the business of knocking off some miles. For some reason it feels like we aren't making very good time and it is getting late in the day with many miles to go yet. Is it just me? Well we make pretty good time on this stretch of US 64 until we reach Highlands. Here, 28 splits off and heads South into Georgia. once again, 28 does not disappoint.
We had been warned about this section of road earlier in the day at the pre-ride meeting before leaving the Inn. Because of heavy and strict patrolling, we keep the speeds quite sane. However, even if this were not the case, there are sheer drop-offs at points on this road that warrant erring on the cautious side. All that stands between us and the steep ride down to the bottom is a little four by four inch stone curb on the outside edge of the road. Even getting over for a look off the edge is a tad scary hehe. All eyes are on the road.
There is actually quite a bit of traffic in this neck of the woods. It seems that there are lots of places where folks just pull off the side of the road and hike down to the river below for an afternoon of fun. Ohh... if only this road were closed to four wheel traffic! There are a few nasty corners with gravel scattered about generously but for the most part this is a fantastic road. At one point I spot an incredible waterfall cascading over a sharp cliff and falling what appears to be more than a hundred feet to the pool below. Of course I can't find a place to pull over and get a picture. Doh! But a few turns later there is another waterfall on the side of the road and I do get a shot of it. While I am sitting here fiddling with my camera, a truck makes a U-turn and drives right under the fall and comes out the other side and is on his way hehe. As I take off to catch up with the others I see quite a few other sport bikes on the road, a local favorite I'm sure.
It does not take long to catch up to the rest of the group. It seems I have picked up another bike, a blue Yamaha FZ1, and he's content to just stick to my tail for a while. Hwy 28 wonders through miles and miles of nothing but mountains and woods, it's great. It eventually brings us down in the corner of South Carolina where we meet up with Hwy 107 at a "Y" in the road. There is a small gas station here and we all pull in for another break. After a refreshing drink and some stretching, we head North on Hwy 107. Our next destination is Whitewater Falls in North Carolina.
Highway 107 is just more of the same great stuff we have been doing all day. Soon the whole group is in a groove. It is really cool to be riding in a group when this happens. Every rider sensing what the other riders are doing and anticipating their moves, snaking along and slithering through the curves, the group has become one. Cool.
So it should be no surprise then that when we come around one particularly quick right hander, everyone scatters as Steve gets on the brakes. The road is making another "Y" and the whole area between the branches is paved like a small parking lot. Apparently Steve can't decide if he should try to make a hard turn or keep going straight. In the end we all just focus on missing each other and coming to a safe stop. A quick conference and it is decided that we will continue on Hwy 107. So everyone takes off into the woods. Then I notice that we are short two riders and I turn around to wait at the "Y" to make sure they follow us.
Dave "Bird Dawg" Viosca comes around the corner and sees me waiting. He is thinking that the rest of the group went the wrong way. So we decide to chase them down and get everyone turned the right way. The stretch of 107 between the turn off and a small town down the road is really cool. The pavement is excellent and the trees completely cover the road making a tunnel. The curves are all perfect. We soon catch up to the group right as they are getting into the outskirts of a small but obviously wealthy town. There are lots of very nice houses, golf courses, and little shops everywhere. We stop for gas and a conference. Then it is decided that we'll head back to the "Y" and take Hwy 413, despite the fact we have gone a few miles out of the way. It's not like you'd have to twist my arm to get me to ride that great stretch of road again hehe.
It is still a beautiful day. The temperature is getting into the low eighties and the sky is bright blue with only a few wispy clouds floating along on the breeze. The glow from the sunlight filtering down through the tree leaves gives everything a soft fuzzy look. Is it really true that too much of a good thing can be bad? It seems hard to believe that I could ever get tired of this kind of riding! Hwy 413 is a short stretch of road that connects Hwy 107 and Hwy 130. We reach Hwy 130 rather quickly. There has been little if any traffic since we originally started up 107 and the pace has picked up considerably. I have settled back to about fourth or fifth in the line and have dropped back a ways. I don't like riding really fast and being all bunched together. Somewhere back behind me Dave and Paul are bringing up the rear.
When we reach Hwy 130, Steve turns the wrong way, again... hehe. It is only a few miles to the Whitewater Falls park so we send John Morin after him. I wait for Dave and Paul to catch up and then we head to the park. While we are parking and taking off the gear, John comes into the parking lot griping in a joking way. Apparently, Steve missed the turn into the park as well and John had to chase him down again. At the Saturday night dinner, the TSRA folks hand out several different humorous awards. They should creat the Steve Duncan "Most likely to need a GPS" award in his honor hehe. A few seconds later, Steve comes wandering into the parking lot. It is actually getting quite warm now.
The park runs on the honor system. You are expected to pay the one dollar fee and slip your money into a lock box at the edge of the parking lot. We do that before leaving. There is a nice picnic area at the base of the trail leading up to the falls. We see some of the other rallye riders relaxing at one of the tables. They assure us that it is worth the effort to hike up the trail for a look. It doesn't look to bad so up we go.
The trail is actually a nicely asphalt paved path about wide enough for two 50cc minibikes top race up the hillside. Mmm... if only... The walk up is refreshing. It is nice to stretch the legs and get the blood flowing after sitting on the bikes all day. When we are about half way up the trail, I notice that I can hear the faint sound of trickling water all around me. Apparently, the ground all around us is saturated with water and it oozes out of the rocks and trickles down the mountain side to the river below. I swear if I had a hammock to sling up here I'd be out in a heartbeat. A slight cool breeze is rustling the leaves, the sound of the water, the shade of the trees... you get the idea.
We reach the top of the trail and there is a fenced off viewing area overlooking the falls. It is pretty cool. Unfortunately, the falls are a long way from us. There is a trail that leads down to the base of the falls and affords a much more up close and personal view. But we have been warned that it is quite a hike, especially the return trip back up the mountain side. So I am content to enjoy the view from here and to snap a few pictures. I play around with the exposure speed to see if I can get at least one good shot. The falls are so tall that it is hard to get all of it in the picture, so I just get the best part. After a few minutes to catch our breath from the hike, we head back down the hill to the parking lot.
While we are getting back into our gear, Dave, Paul and myself decide we are going to take off on our own and set our own pace rather than try to hang with Steve, John and Chris. We'd like to take it easy and just enjoy more of the incredible scenery for the rest of the ride. Yes, I know, it makes us sound like old farts, oh well. So we pull out of the park and head North on Hwy 281.
I'm still riding a little faster than Dave and Paul, but I try to slow down on the straights and watch for their headlights after every set of fun curves. Before long Hwy 281 joins back up with US 64 and they run together to the East for a few miles. We are looking for the turn for Hwy 215 North to take us back up the mountain to the BRP. As I round a fairly tight righthanded sweeper, I spot some bikes pulled over in a gravel parking lot, all Triumphs. Suspecting trouble I pull over.
This is the turn off for 215. Richard and Lisa White are stopped with another rider. It appears that when he slowed to make the turn onto 215, his front tire hit one of the little reflectors on the center stripe and the front end of the bike washed right out from under him. He was only going about 10-15 mph when he hit it so he and the bike are fine except for some minor scratches and a bent shifter lever. We get the lever straightened out so that he can ride the bike and prepare to be on our way. Dave and Paul have since caught up to me.
Right about the time I get all the gear back on and start to get the bike fired up, I spot a big tour bus coming around the corner with his turn signal blinking! Man I'd hate to get stuck behind this guy as soon as we get started on this great road. It is very unlikely there are any places to pass. I run out into the road and lay myself across his lane before he makes the turn, a vain Tianammen Squarish attempt to block this behemoth's path. He doesn't see the humor in it hehe. So I let him pass.
I despair as I see the bus accelerate off into the woods, rounding the first corner with a big huff of thick diesel smoke pouring out his pipes. Ugghhh. When everyone is ready we head off, myself leading. It takes all of five or six turns to catch the bus. He is crawling along this tight road. There are no straights and I am loath to pass in corners. The catch is that if I am ever going to pass him, I have to hang pretty close to him so that I can quickly accelerate around him and get back into my lane in a short distance. The smog is killing me! After about five minutes, I get a short straight and blow around him as fast as I can. I think it must have been about a two second pass in second gear from 3000 rpm to about 11500 and back. What fun hehe!
With a clear stretch of road ahead and everyone else still stuck behind the bus, I decide to enjoy myself. This section of road is not about high speeds. It is all about being smooth and reading the road, setting up for the corners so that the next corner does not surprise you. To go fast, you must first go slow Grasshopper! It is getting late in the afternoon and it gives me the feeling of being in another world nestled down in woods. I am gaining altitude pretty quick and my ears are popping. As I get near the ridge, I pull over in a nice overlook to wait for the others. There were enough straights and little traffic that I am sure they have long since passed the bus. Time for a quick picture and then I'm ready to roll when the others catch up to me.
Dave and Paul roll up in a few minutes but they don't have Richard, Lisa and the other guy in tow? Hmm? Well, we continue on and reach the Parkway in a few minutes. We could turn here and be back at the Inn in about twenty minutes or less. It is about 5:00pm. But I want to explore the North leg of 215 because the South side was so much fun. A quick conference at the stop sign and Dave and Paul agree. So down we go.
I really can't describe these roads well enough to even give someone a remote idea of how awesome they are for riding. There are creeks, rivers and waterfalls everywhere. The entire trip down the mountain is one long double yellow because there aren't any straight sections more than an eigth of a mile at the most. Combine that with heading down hill and having gravity pulling the bike, urging it down, faster and faster. It is a completely immersive experience. As I come out of a turn, like so many before it, I see a cool old brick bridge spanning a stream and pull off to the side of the road. I think I have enough time to get my camera out of the bag just in time to catch Dave and Paul coming around the corner. Right as I turn around to look for them, there they are, dang! I just point and shoot with no time to really set up for the shot. Then I pack up and take off again.
I don't really worry about trying to catch up to them as they are running a pretty sedate pace now that we are on the end of a long day. Once again I come upon another stone bridge, this one curving with the road. I decide to stop and explore the stream a bit. I pull off on the shoulder next to someone's Jeep and get out the camera. Then I head down to the rocks and start climbing beneath the bridge.
The stream comes down the side of the mountain in a series of waterfalls, runs under the bridge and over a large waterfall to a pool below. That's when I spot the couple dipping in the pool below, dressed of course ;-) I can't imagine how cold it must be to swim in this water for more than a few minutes at the most. Deciding not to bother them, I head up the hill away from the bridge and snap a few more pictures. (Pic 1 / Pic 2 / Pic 3). I could hang out here for hours and do absolutely nothing... except that it is getting late. So I climb back up to the bike and get back on the road.
It's not long before I catch up the Dave and Paul. They are stopped at a bridge the crosses over part of Lake Logan. So I pull over and we hang our for a while just chatting and taking in the view. (Pic 1 / Pic 2). I sit thinking how awesome it would be to have a lake house here. There is only one other house that we can see. Imagine waking up to such beauty everyday! After the picture taking, we head out, now intent on finishing the ride and getting back to the Inn for dinner.
We get behind some other riders, not part of our group, so I just settle in behind them and run their relaxed pace, trying to avoid running up on the back of them and making them nervous. One of them appears to be a relative novice and I don't want them worrying about me behind them instead of the road ahead. Soon they turn off and we go our way. Highway 215 dead ends into Hwy 276.
Now I am leading like Steve. I take the turn and head the wrong way for about a quarter of a mile before we realize we are heading North towards Waynesville instead of South back up the mountain to the Parkway. We get turned around and are soon back on track. The fun really starts when we get to the base of the mountain and the road starts to climb rapidly, very tight and steep. But no sooner than I start to enjoy myself again, we get stuck behind some couple in a Jeep, stereo blasting and the girl flopping around and screaming like she's having some kind of mental trip. Kid's... sheesh ;-) Unfortunately, there are absolutely no places to pass so I just have to settle in and watch the show until we reach the top.
At the top, we get on the Parkway and quickly get around the Jeep. It is only a few miles from here to the Inn, but even this little short stretch of the Parkway is a blast. Pumped to be on the end of a great day of riding, I open it up and let the VFR stretch it's legs a bit for the last few miles. I love the way this bike handles and sounds in the fun zone of the RPM gauge. I round the last corner and I can see the Inn across the way, then I lean into the last big long right hand sweeper before the parking lot. As I pull in I see a large crowd of folks already standing around telling stories and drinking cold beer. After changing out of the riding gear, I grab the camera and head out to the parking lot to get pictures of the people. Something I have been accused of failing to do in the past ;-)
It is getting late afternoon/early evening and it is getting rather cool in the parking lot. Everyone starts to make their way over to the meeting room at the restaraunt for the banquet. Dinner is great, but then come all the speeches, toasts, yada yada yada,... You get the idea. It is all great fun. After dinner we take the large group picture, the one I still have not seen. Then I run around trapping people and getting more pictures the rest of the evening, hehe.
Most everyone migrates back to the parking lot for a mellow party and some beers. It is a great chance for everyone to rehash the riding of the last few days and to still get to know each other a little better. Around 11:00pm people start drifting off to bed. Many of them having to get up and leave quite early the Sunday morning to get home. Having to knock out nearly 1200 miles in the next two days, I do likewise. Jim has long since gone to bed. I do a little prepacking so I won't have to think in the morning and then call it quits for the night.